Monday, August 18, 2014

19 Days, 8500 Miles or So: Ride Overview - Part 2

As soon as I began this review of our 2014 Northwest Adventure, I realized the entire report would be too long for a single post. This is Part 2. Because the first 4 days of the ride (including Day 0) were all about a long, hard push to the west coast, there weren't many sights to recall. The real fun was always supposed to begin on Day 4. As a result, the narrative will be longer now, as we were blessed to be able to see a lot of what our great country has to offer. Here we go...

DAY 4
Beginning location: Oakland, CA
Day 4 destination: Fort Bragg, CA
States visited: California
Daily mileage: 209
Cumulative mileage: 3,209

After a late, late night to end our Yosemite adventure, sleeping in was in order. We decided to eat our Hilton breakfast as late as possible and then get back on the road at noon. Steve needed to replace a broken Go Pro mount, I needed a water bottle, and Elizabeth needed to see if she could get some help with a broken phone, so we had a really leisurely morning.

When we finally got going, we made our way over the Oakland Bay Bridge, then followed our route into downtown San Francisco as we tried to get to the Golden Gate Bridge. I'm not sure if I made a routing error or if you really have to go downtown to get from the Bay Bridge to the Golden Gate - but we ended up right in the middle of a traffic nightmare created by a Gay Pride parade. And it just kept getting later and later.

Finally, we made it through the traffic and followed signs to the magnificent Golden Gate Bridge. The sight merited a stop at an observation area on the north side of the bridge, where we were able to get a great view of the bridge and the bay.

Next up was a ride on Panoramic Highway, a pretty challenging road with lots of elevation changes and mild switchbacks that took us down to the Pacific Coast Highway. This route afforded us our first views of the Pacific Ocean, and we were not disappointed by the sight.

All along, the plan was for us to ride much shorter days as the ladies began their time with us. Our goal was a mere 329 miles - child's play compared to the distances we had been riding. Even so, given our late start and the traffic problems in San Francisco, I could see that we were going to come up short of our daily goal for the first time on the trip. While I knew we would not get to Humboldt Bay, CA, I was still determined to get to the Point Arena Lighthouse before finding a place to spend the night.

On our 2013 Northeast ride, we were able to visit a lighthouse on the coast of Maine. Visiting a lighthouse on the west coast seemed like a good idea, providing some sort of balance to the overall 48-state challenge. So this became the new goal for the day: at least get to the lighthouse. But first, we were to soak in the beauty of the PCH.

I was not at all prepared for the Highway 1 experience. I expected the entire road to take us along the coast. Instead, we found the road making its way inland at times where we encountered rolling pastures and cattle. And then we would be back to the coast. It was all quite interesting. And challenging enough technically to hold our attention, for sure!

After a late lunch at a place called Farm House Restaurant somewhere near Stinson Beach, we continued north, making some stops to take in the beauty of the coast. Realizing the sun was beginning to drop, we started counting down miles to the lighthouse, trying to get there in time to see the sun set. The lateness of the hour made it necessary to pick up the pace a bit - and the result was some real riding excitement on the PCH. Fun times, for sure - and yes, we made it to the Point Arena Lighthouse in time to see a beautiful west coast sunset.

While the sunset was absolutely beautiful, we were unable to go into the lighthouse, as it was closed for the day. Another complication was that once the sun set, the cool crisp air turned COLD - cold enough that Annette and I got some of our cold-weather gear out for the ride in search of a place to stay.

Finding lodging took a while - but we finally located a brand-new Holiday Inn Express in Fort Bragg, CA. We only covered 209 miles on this day. Even so, with the late start, shopping, traffic, and time spent enjoying the sights, we didn't land at our hotel until after 10 PM. Another long day, but we were thrilled to experience so much on Day 4.
























DAY 5
Beginning location: Fort Bragg, CA
Day 5 destination: Grants Pass, OR
States visited: California, (11) Oregon
Daily mileage: 313
Cumulative mileage: 3,522

I haven't mentioned weather. After the rain on Day 0 followed by the threat of rain riding through central Louisiana, we had GREAT weather. It was hot at times - but one of my daughters gave me a Cool Vest for my birthday, and it works. As a matter of fact, I learned that it was a bad idea to soak the vest early in the day because I would actually get cold. Day 5 was another beautiful day - cool in the morning before warming up to hot later in the day - but dry and clear.

We left our hotel just after 7 AM, made our way back to the PCH, and continued north. Our first point of interest was the Chandelier Tree. This attraction required our getting off of the asphalt - definitely not my favorite thing to do. The road was well-maintained, though, and the experience was worth it. This location was a sort of gateway to our ride through the famous redwoods. We made our way north on the Avenue of the Giants and through the Humboldt Redwood State Park, amazed by the grandeur of the towering redwoods. My only regret is that we did not stop to walk among these giant trees in order to more fully appreciate how magnificent they really are.

From here it was back to the coast. We decided to stop for lunch in Eureka, CA, near Humboldt Bay. We used Yelp to find what we thought was a highly-recommended seafood restaurant. At some point in time, however, Bayfront One became a Japanese restaurant. Not at all what we expected, but the waterfront setting was quite nice, so we stayed and enjoyed a great lunch before pressing north into Redwood National Park. Those trees are impressive!

In the original ride plan, I routed us north on the PCH all the way into Washington. By midday, I faced the realization that we had no chance of staying on schedule at the speeds we were able to travel on the Highway 101. Oh, it's beautiful, for sure - but the road is not built for speed - especially when you find yourself behind slow-moving traffic. During our lunch stop we agreed that we should leave the coast and head inland, get to I-5, and make up some time.

We chose CA 199 through the Smith River National Recreation Area - and what a great choice this was. 199 is a beautifully-wooded route characterized by long sweepers and frequent elevation changes. We were having an absolutely wonderful time - until we encountered a man named Bob. Here is what happened:

We rounded a curve on a long uphill sweeper to find a motorcycle on it's side in the middle of the southbound lane. Of course, we came to an abrupt stop, quickly surveyed the scene, and realized the rider must have been thrown over the guardrail and down the side of the mountain. Elizabeth, who is a medical professional, was searching diligently for the rider in order to render whatever assistance she could. Unable to find him, other members of our party started finding personal items - cell phone, knife, and flashlight - along the road, and realized he had gone over the guardrail well north of where we found the bike. Finally, Elizabeth found Bob, scrambled down the 40-foot embankment, and began to try to provide assistance.

So much happened in the next 90 minutes or so. Elizabeth and Randall assessed Bob's injuries - a badly-broken leg, multiple contusions, and disoriented. I answered Bob's phone when it rang, trying to explain to the caller that I was not joking, and that Bob had really been involved in a serious accident. A paramedic on vacation arrived on the scene. He had his trauma kit with him and quickly took charge of the situation. Finally, local rescue teams arrived, did their best to stabilize Bob, hauled him up the embankment, transported him down the mountain, and had him airlifted to a hospital.

This was certainly a sobering part of our journey, and we left the scene with a fresh awareness of the risk inherent in this activity we enjoy so much. We were confident, though, that Bob would be okay, only to find a newspaper account a couple of days later that informed us Bob had died from his injuries.

Read a brief news account about Robert Gatlin's death here:
http://www.triplicate.com/News/Local-News/Driver-of-Harley-dies-from-crash-off-199

Physically and emotionally spent from the experiences of this day, we made our way to the intersection of CA 199 and I-5 and stopped for the night in Grants Pass, OR. We were inland from our original route and still behind schedule, but I was somewhat confident we could use the interstate to get us back on schedule by the end of Day 6.















Sunday, August 17, 2014

19 Days, 8500 Miles or So: Ride Overview - Part 1

How do you summarize so many miles and such a rich experience in one post? I'm not sure it can be done. I'll get started and see how it works out. The exercise - due to work and travel schedules - is overdue. Overdue but necessary, because I want to review… reflect… savor an experience in such a way that I can call it all to mind again in the days ahead.

We made memories, after all, that are to be celebrated and cherished. In our family, in experiences both good and bad, we often say, "Well… we're making a memory." L.M. Montgomery, in The Story Girl, wrote, "nothing is ever really lost to us as long as we remember it." "The worst memories," wrote Rachel Vincent, "stick with us, while the nice ones always seem to slip through our fingers." I begin this exercise because we made memories, and I want to insure these best-of-times days don't slip through our fingers.

REMEMBERING THE OBJECTIVE
We set out to ride to the Pacific Northwest. I had ridden in 31 states over the course of the past two summers, and 17 remained in the challenge to ride all 48 (plus D.C.) in three summers. The route took us through more than 17 states, of course, but the 17 we had not visited in '12 and '13 were the target.

DAY 0
Beginning location: Winter Garden, FL
Day 1 destination: Port Allen, LA
States visited: (1) Florida, (2) Alabama, (3) Mississippi,  (4) Louisiana
Daily mileage: 691.1
Cumulative mileage: 691

Four other adventurers signed on for the 2014 Northwest Challenge. All four live in south Louisiana - so Day 0 (so the other guys could start counting at Day 1) was a solo ride for me. I said goodbye to Annette and set my sights on Port Allen, LA. Highlights of the day:

  • At my first gas stop, I was carrying on conversation with some guys who were admiring my bike and asking about the trip, trying to pay attention to their questions and comments while searching through my wallet for my debit card - all to no avail. Using another card, I came to the realization that I had left home without my trusty MasterCard check card. The card was marooned at an establishment I had visited a couple of days earlier - and I was left to use my AMEX. Not the best of starts…
  • Traveling alone, I made fast and efficient gas and lunch stops, and was able to arrive in Baton Rouge (east of my final destination for the day) just in time to experience rush hour traffic.
  • I also encountered the only significant rain I would hit the entire trip on the last 40 miles or so of Day 0.
  • Arriving at my hotel, I discovered that I had made my reservation for the night incorrectly. So I was a no-show for the day of my incorrect reservation. Fortunately, rooms were available, so I negotiated a discounted rate and paid for yet another night at Comfort Inn and Suites in Port Allen, LA.
  • Tired and wet, I decided to order pizza for delivery, cleaned up the bike, ate a bite, and called it a night.

I had an idea I might try to take a picture of the welcome sign in each state we visited.
This lasted exactly two states. I missed the Louisiana sign and gave up on this plan.
A screen shot of the weather app on my phone
as I approached Baton Rouge. Yes, I got wet.
A screen shot of my Garmin Zumo 665 after reaching my hotel in Port Allen.


DAY 1
Beginning location: Port Allen, LA
Day 1 destination: Childress, TX
States visited: (5) Texas, (6) Oklahoma
Daily mileage: 698.1
Cumulative mileage: 1,389

After a good night of rest in Port Allen, I started the day looking forward to a time of reunion with the New Orleans crew. I had not seen some of these guys since the end of the 2013 Northeast Adventure. They left New Orleans at 6 AM, allowing me to sleep in a bit. We met at a McDonald's near my hotel for a good All-American breakfast, and then started out on our journey.

Our goal for the day was Childress, TX. Some thoughts about the trip-planning process - and the plan for this ride in particular - might provide some insight for readers. In each of the previous trips (Southwestern US in 2012 and Northeastern US in 2013), we tried to build the trips around a 17-day time frame and a total ride distance of 5,000 miles. Seventeen days allowed us to capture 2 full weeks plus a third weekend. 5,000 miles just seemed to be about the most we thought we could ride and still enjoy the adventure.

When we began planning the 2014 adventure, I suggested we ship the bikes to San Francisco, fly to the west coast, and begin the ride there. This plan would allow us to keep the 5,000 parameter in place. This was the plan for a while, until the New Orleans gang decided they would rather ride the whole way. "If you're riding it, I'm riding it," I said. So… ride it we did. Sticking to the 17-day plan meant we had to get to the west coast in a hurry. The requirement: average some 725 miles a day until we reached San Francisco, where we were to meet the ladies.

So I looked for a destination that would have the New Orleans guys riding somewhere around 725 miles on Day 1. They had a 90-mile ride from New Orleans to Port Allen, so my day would be 90 miles easier than their. (Remember, this madness was their idea!)

Each day, I plan a target destination, but we seldom make hotel reservations. We try to reach our goal location each day, but are willing to pull up short if weather or mechanical challenges slow us down… or if we choose to enjoy sights along the way that take longer than anticipated… or if we simply get tired. Childress, TX was the target - and we made it safely there. Highlights of Day 1:

  • Not many!
  • The forecast called for rain for our ride through central Louisiana. We left Port Allen in a bit of mist and saw rain on the radar for much of the morning, but managed to stay dry through the day.
  • Unlike most days, when we look for scenic or curvy roads, our route on these early days was primarily interstate, as we were just pushing west. We rode I-49 to Shreveport, then turned east on I-20 for a while before leaving the interstate to make our way north to Dallas.
  • I thought I routed us far enough north of the Dallas / Fort Worth area to miss traffic. It wasn't far enough north, so we lost considerable time dealing with city congestion.
  • Randall and I rode through Oklahoma in 2012, but the BMW riders weren't with us on then, so we left Texas for a while, heading north into Oklahoma and then back into Texas to end our day.
We saw a lot of this on our way west - long, straight, flat four-lane highway.
Bored with the scenery, I took a selfie.
A late-night visit to Pizza Hut after arriving in Childress - because Pizza Hut was the only place that was open.
Another GPS shot showing mileage after two days of riding. Disregard the
max speed. Must have been a malfunction. We don't exceed the speed limit.

DAY 2
Beginning location: Childress, TX
Day 2 destination: Williams, AZ
States visited: Texas, (7) New Mexico, (8) Arizona
Daily mileage: 752
Cumulative mileage: 2,141

Day 2 was really another "just get to the west coast" day. We were still spending much of our time on the interstate. All along in our planning, we recognized that the real fun would begin with our crossing of The Golden Gate Bridge - but this day offered some early adventure. Soon after leaving Childress, we ventured onto The Mother Road, historic Route 66, to see Cadillac Ranch. I'll add that this was the first time I really started to take pictures - so the image count will go up considerably from this point in the ride review.

After leaving Cadillac Ranch, we continued west and had the first of several adventures with almost running out of gas. The Harley Davidsons have 6-gallon gas tanks. While we usually get 40-something miles-per-gallon, we found our fuel economy was affected by climbs to elevation, headwinds, and a tendency to ride at a speed that might not be the most economical. All of these factors were in play crossing Arizona - and we cut one of our gas stops WAY too close.

The desert is really beautiful, and we were able to begin to appreciate the rich hues of the rock formations, and the flat landscape of Texas and Oklahoma gave way to terrain that offered hints of the mountains to come.

We ended this day still on schedule, reaching our goal destination of Williams, AZ. This is a great place to stop if going to The Grand Canyon. But we visited there on the 2012 adventure - and we found Williams to be loaded with tourists. Finding a hotel was not so easy, and the place we ended up was not the greatest. But we got a hot shower and a good night of sleep, ready for Day 3. Which would prove to be quite the adventure...

Cadillac Ranch. Much rain in previous days made for a mess - but we enjoyed our visit to this iconic landmark.
Meet the other riders: from left, Steve Kinchen, Randall McIlwain, Matt McWilliams, Trent Schelin
This guy has been a friend for a long, long time - and is the only other
rider who was a part of the entire 48-state challenge.
My ride: 2013 Harley Davidson Road Glide Ultra




I missed the signs in Louisiana, Texas, Oklahoma, and Arizona - but I got this one.
Lunch. If it's Tex-Mex in Texas, is it Mex-Mex in New Mexico? Whatever you call it - it was good!

This was the first of two unfortunate accidents we encountered on our trip.
I don't think this ended well for the driver of the overturned truck. 
A hint of things to come.

DAY 3
Beginning location: Williams, AZ
Day 3 destination: Oakland, CA
States visited: Arizona, (9) Nevada, (10) California
Daily mileage: 859
Cumulative mileage: 3,000

Day 3 was a "must-finish" day: my wife, Annette, and Randall's wife, Elizabeth, had flown into San Francisco and were waiting for us in Oakland. The "real" ride was to begin on Sunday (day 4) - so we really needed to reach our target destination.

Leaving Williams, we continued west on I-40 to Kingman, AZ. Here, we left the interstate to ride Highway 68 to Laughlin, NV. This little detour allowed the guys who weren't with us in 2012 to add Nevada to their states-ridden list. Heading south from Laughlin, we jumped back on I-40 and continued west along the southern edge of the Mojave National Preserve, where temperatures registered well over 100 degrees. It was HOT!

Prior to departure, each of the riders had a ride itinerary. Here is an excerpt that described some Day-3 routing options: This is a hard day - and we have an easy remedy if we're tired, have encountered weather, etc. I have added an optional ride through Yosemite National Park on Tioga Pass Road that would end the interstate monotony and begin the scenic part of the trip. In yet another ambitious routing choice, I have added a ride on the Yosemite Valley Loop. The description at allyosemite.com states "Yosemite Valley Loop is the premier way to soak in Yosemite's best and most stunning landmarks. From El Capitan to Half Dome and Bridalveil Fall, this is the area that Yosemite is famous for."

We all agreed we wanted to visit Yosemite. At the point we had to decide whether we wanted to ride the Yosemite Valley Loop, it was getting late in the day. Much discussion ensued. We voted. Four to one to ride The Loop. Together, these choices resulted in the longest day any of us had ever spent on a motorcycle.

The ride through Yosemite was stunning. I'm so glad we made the choices we did. The ride OUT of Yosemite toward Oakland, however, proved more challenging than expected. The route would have been great fun in daylight. At night, with no light anywhere except our own headlights and driving lights… let's just say we proceeded with caution. A day that began at 7 AM finally ended at our hotel in Oakland well after 2 AM. 859 miles and 19 hours in the saddle… I'm not sure I ever want to do that again. We made a memory, for sure!

CA 395 North - on the way to Yosemite National Park
A quick stop as we made the turn west on Tioga Pass Road




Tuesday, August 12, 2014

Ride With Me!

"What we need to realize," wrote a contributor to artofmanliness.com, "is that it is not the discovery of new things that is important for the average man, but the understanding of ourselves which we often acquire through high adventure." This adventurer agrees wholeheartedly.

"High adventure" for me often has something to do with pushing the pause button on the every-day life I am blessed to live. It is about throwing a leg over a big Harley Davidson motorcycle and setting my sights on some twisting, turning road on the back side of nowhere. Having found such a road, pulse-pounding adventure is riding that road at a speed that is right at the edge of my ability. Heart pounding, knuckles white… and a grin as wide as Texas… This is the kind of adventure I seek. This is the adventure I share - first with Annette and others who are with me on the ride - and then with you.

Ride with me through parts of Hell's Canyon Scenic Byway and a 22-mile ride along The Snake River called The Devil's Tail to Hell's Canyon Dam. Riders from all over the world come to the northeast corner of Oregon to ride this famous motorcycle road. It is said to be the deepest motorcycle road in North American, measuring some 2,000 feet deeper than The Grand Canyon. The road gets its name from the fact that it forms the base of the Seven Devils Mountains and the eastern all of Hell's Canyon. Twenty-two miles north to the dam. A stop to appreciate the beauty of the canyon. And then twenty-two miles back out of the canyon before making our way south into Idaho on our way to some place called Pocatello.

Click on the image to the left or paste the following link into your browser to join me via video on this road less traveled.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLgHUnUWFfU

Monday, July 14, 2014

Video… Not So Much

I rode around for most of our trip looking like a dork with a Go Pro camera mounted on my helmet. An iPhone app allows me to control the camera. It's pretty cool, really. Except for the dork part.

EXCUSES
So we get pretty good video with the helmet mount. However… a video editor I am NOT. So here are a couple of excuses / disclaimers:
  • I have no clue what I am doing when it comes to editing video.
  • I did this one really fast, as I am back in the real world of work.
  • I figured out how to straighten the first part of the video, only to find out the video that looked fine in the editing software was crooked when I uploaded to YouTube.  So forget that. I had to un-straighten it. It's only crooked for a little while.
  • I have to use stock music. YouTube disables my videos if I use anything copyrighted. So I know the music is stinky. I'm open to ideas when it comes to music.

SUGGESTION
Enough of the excuses. Here's a suggestion: Click on the little gear at the lower right of the video and select 1080 HD video. It looks much better this way.

CONTEXT
I have HOURS of video to sort through, and will create and upload as I have time. Might be a while before I get to do another. As for this one…

  • After a hard four-day push for me (three days for the other guys) to Oakland, California. we slept in due to the length of the ride the day before.
  • Getting a late start, we headed across the Bay Bridge to the Golden Gate Bridge. We had to get off of the freeway and go through part of the city of San Francisco to get to the Golden Gate Bridge. This little ride through the city landed us right in the middle of roadblocks for a LBGTQ parade. We lost an hour or more - in heat - finding our way to the bridge.
  • The video documents our ride across the Golden Gate Bridge and a fun ride on a road called Panoramic Highway which offered a lot of twists and turns, elevation changes, and an exhilarating first view of the Pacific Coast.
  • The remainder of the video gives you an idea of the changing landscape of Highway 1, The Pacific Coast Highway.
  • This first day on the PCH ended at Point Arena Lighthouse. We rode like crazy people to get to the lighthouse just in time for sunset, and then rode off in the cold in search of a hotel.

Here's the link to the video on YouTube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0Rq_Zyf6Z8

Or you can just watch it here:
(It's bigger and better on YouTube)


Home Sweet Home!

That's where I am. Home. After a bunch of miles and nineteen nights in hotel rooms, I am SO glad to be home, sleeping in my own bed. The adventure has been wonderful, as we experienced so much in these days away. At the end of the three-year challenge, I reflect on the entire 48-state endeavor and marvel at all we have seen. We've seen The Grand Canyon, Niagara Falls, Yellowstone National Park, and so much more. We have met some of the most interesting people along the way. We have laughed. Relationships with fellow riders have been deepened. We have seen tragedy along the way (more on this in another post). But today, I celebrate home. And I rest.


Here is the final track, recorded by our trusty SPOT Gen3 Satellite Tracker. The 2014 plan was our most aggressive, by far. We had no assurance we would finish the journey, knowing that only with great weather and machines that performed well would we be able to visit each of the remaining states.


End-of-trip report:
  • Regarding weather, I experienced about 40 miles of rain on my ride to Port Allen, LA to meet the other riders. On our first day of riding together, there was rain on the weather radar, but we hardly experienced a sprinkle as God kept opening windows through the showers for us. We suited up in Sturgis for about 15 minutes of rain, followed by some wet roads through The Black Hills, and I was rained on about two minutes near Gainesville. Other than these bits of rain, our roads were dry, enabling us to make great time.
  • Our machines performed very well. We had one minor issue in La Crosse, Wisconsin with a loose bolt on a shifter that we were able to diagnose and repair in about 10 minutes. No parts flew off of the Harleys - and we were able to stay on schedule.


The result was we finished the course and visited each of the states on the route. Mission accomplished! In terms of miles, there is a bit of a discrepancy. My motorcycle odometer indicates a total trip mileage that is a bit higher than the mileage reported by our Garmin Zumo 665 GPS. Some of the difference can be explained away by quick trips to dinner without all of the electronics - but I believe the Garmin number is probably the most accurate. In either case, we eclipsed the 8,000-mile mark. In an upcoming post, I'll document the actual miles ridden per day. Some were extreme high-mileage days, as we simply had to reach a destination in order to stay on schedule. Others - like our days in The Grand Tetons and Yellowstone, as well as at Crazy Horse and Mount Rushmore - were shorted, in order to allow time to get off of the bikes and enjoy the sights. For now, let it suffice to say that we averaged 470.85 miles per day over the course of the 2014 Adventure Ride. An aggressive ride, indeed, but fun and rewarding!

Thanks for sharing the journey with us, and especially for praying for us as we traveled. We enjoyed safety, harmony, favorable weather, and were able to experience so much of the beauty of creation.

It's time for a nap. More to come...