Day 13 dawns in Lunenburg, and we know we're in the home stretch of the journey. I think it's safe to say everyone is tired now. We're still having fun. Laughter still characterizes many of our moments. But we're approaching the limits of what our bodies and minds can endure. We know there is more to see... more to experience... and we press on.
The sunshine of Day 12 has yielded to light rain and low-hanging fog. The plan is to continue to skirt the eastern shore of Nova Scotia on the Lighthouse Route. Our route takes us to the LeHave Ferry, where $7 CAD gets us across the winding LeHave River. One of the last remaining cable ferries in Nova Scotia affords us a 5-minute journey and a perfect view of life on the river. We see clear sky across the river.
A quick left turn lands us at the LeHave Bakery, and stop highly recommended by riders who have gone before us. The bakery did not disappoint. And this was a welcome blessing, as breakfast in Lunenburg had been quite a disappointment. Our earlier departure meant nothing in the sleepy little town of Lunenburg was open except Subway - hardly a culinary delight. With this being the case, the traditional breads and pastries made from locally-grown fresh-milled grains satisfied our longing for something tasty. This quick stop was extended as we enjoyed a refreshing "re-breakfast".
The stop at the bakery allowed us an opportunity to get a feel for life on the river in rural Nova Scotia. And the fog started to roll back in, as it seemed to do at will and without warning.
It was here the day started to take a different turn. One of the good bikes (those would be the Harley-Davidson machines) had indicator lights suggesting a possible engine temperature problem. Knowing we had a long, hard push home coming, Randall decided to head back to Halifax for service. The chase car accompanied the wounded machine while the rest of us continued south, concerned about our brother's well-being and plan.
Leaving the bakery, we ventured out to the LeHave Islands. These idyllic islands, like most of the coast, have a long history of settlement and many older homes remain today. Five of the islands are connected by bridge or causeway to the mainland. Fishing is still an important part of island life. Many homes have their own wharves. The LeHave Islands are hilly, mostly forested, and ringed with rock piles and beaches.
Leaving the islands, we set our course toward the real target. We were, after all, on the Lighthouse Route - and lighthouses were the order of the day.
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| Port Medway Lighthouse |
An unschedule stop at the Fort Point Lighthouse was followed by a visit to the Western Head Light, pictured below. While in search of the perfect vantage point for a photo of the light, I picked up a nasty little hitchhiker who remain undetected until we reached our hotel in Yarmouth. We were also treated to a sighting of a couple of harbor seals, barely visible in the photo.
Though the weather was changing rapidly, we paid a quick visit to the coastal town of Lockporte...
... and then started working on getting re-connected to Randall, Janet, and Henry, who had been able to have Randall's bike serviced in Halifax and were making their way toward a late lunch-time rendezvous with the rest of the group. Our lunch destination was the Sea Dog Saloon, and just after we arrived, I heard the welcome sound of Harley-Davidson exhaust music. Randall and the chase car arrived just as we were ready to walk from our parking spaces to the restaurant.
Our last significant adventure of the day was to wind along the coastal road to the end of Hawk Point Road where we would visit the Cape Sable Light. This is the tallest lighthouse in Nova Scotia, located at the most southerly point in Atlantic Canada. First, though, we checked out the monument located there, the mud flats revealed at low tide, and the big red chair. We should have looked for the lighthouse first, as you can "see" if you click the link below to a short video.
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